Learning how to tie knots

Rope skills

• Before any team is allowed onto the glacier they must be able to demonstrate to the mountain authorities that they can tie their rope with a 'figure-of-8' at each end and an 'alpine butterfly' knot for mid-point tie.
• The 'figure-of-8' knot is probably the most useful of all climbing knots. It is easy to tie, easy to undo after a load has been applied, and puts the least stress on the rope when tied tight. It can be tied anywhere in the rope, but if it's near the end, it should be secured with a stopper knot to prevent the knot from undoing itself.
• The 'alpine butterfly' is a good knot for belays or for tying rub points out of a rope. Its main advantage is that the two strands of rope emerging from the knot are at 180 degrees to one another rather than emerging in the same direction as in a figure-of-eight. This makes it a good mid-rope knot and good for belays because it has greater strength than a figure-of-eight.

1. Make a loop
2. Bring the end around behind the standing part
3. Put the end through the loop
4. Dress and set (pull tight) the knot

1. Start with a bight of rope
2. Twist the rope twice (one full turn)
3. Grasp the top of the bight and fold it down towards the ends
4. With your hand still on the top of the bight, pull it underneath and through the hole just formed
5. Dress and set (pull tight) the knot